Vegetable-tanned leather: why some accessories crack and others age
Two collars may look identical in the store. After two years, one is stiff and cracked at the buckle, while the other is softer than on the day of purchase. The difference is made much earlier than on the shelf – in the tannery.
Vegetable vs. Chrome Tanning
Tanning transforms raw hide into rot-resistant material. Chrome tanning takes a dozen hours and relies on chromium salts. Vegetable tanning takes from several weeks to several months and uses tannins from bark, leaves, and fruits.
Chrome leather is cheaper, more flexible from the start, and accepts any color. Vegetable leather is more expensive and initially stiffer – but it's the one that works over time. The fibers align under stress, the material softens and adapts to the shape, instead of wearing out in that spot.
Aniline finish, or leather that looks like leather
Aniline finish means dyeing by penetration, without an opaque coating on top. Natural pores, discolorations, and minor animal marks are visible. For some, this is a defect. In practice, it's proof that you're looking at leather, not a layer of varnish.
There's one consequence, and it's important to know: such leather absorbs. A raindrop will leave a mark if you dry it point-wise. That's why when it gets wet, you moisten the entire piece from seam to seam, not just one spot.
Patina is not wear and tear
After a few months, vegetable leather darkens, and in areas of most frequent contact, it gains a sheen. This is patina. In chrome leather with a coating, these same areas simply wear off, and a lighter spot appears.
Minor scratches on aniline leather can be repaired with heat: vigorous rubbing with a soft cloth for thirty seconds releases waxes that fill the scratch. On lacquered leather, this trick doesn't work, because the coating is damaged, not the material.
Brass instead of steel
Fittings determine whether an accessory will outlive the leather. Brass doesn't rust, and its patina can be removed in a minute. Nickel-plated steel elements look identical until the day the coating chips off – and then corrosion progresses quickly and spreads to the leather.
In the Windsor collar and Windsor leash, all fittings are made entirely of brass. This is also why we can offer a lifetime warranty on them.
How not to ruin good leather in the first month
- Do not dry near a radiator. Rapid drying evaporates fats, and the leather cracks. Leave it at room temperature.
- Do not use household cleaning products. Detergents dissolve the oiling. A natural bristle brush and aniline leather balm are sufficient.
- Do not rub stains point-wise. A border will remain that you won't be able to remove.
Is it worth it?
A vegetable-tanned leather collar costs more than synthetic and more than chrome leather. You buy it once. Plus, there's something not visible in the price list: such a collar looks better after two years than on the day of purchase. See the entire collection of collars and leashes made from the same leather.
